How to check a used car before you buy

Buying a used car in the UK is still a registration-first job. The plate on the advert is the starting point for identity, tax, MOT and later history checks. Do as much of that work as you can before you travel to view the car, then repeat the same checks on the day with the V5C in your hand.

This guide is a practical order of work. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a mechanic, and it does not replace reading the seller’s documents yourself.

What to check before you view the car

Start with the advert. Note the registration, the claimed make and model, the colour, the fuel type, the engine size, the advertised mileage and the asking price. If any of those details are missing, ask for them in writing before you set off.

Then run a free official-style lookup. On Caroat you can start from the registration lookup and the free check tools. Confirm that the car in the advert matches the records: make, model, colour and fuel should line up. If they do not, stop and ask why before you book a viewing.

• Tax status and whether the vehicle is SORN
• Current MOT status and expiry date
• The latest recorded mileage from MOT tests
• Engine size and other core specs

Paid history is separate. Finance, stolen markers and write-off records are not part of free MOT or tax data. If the price is high enough that a missed risk would hurt, plan a premium history check before you pay, not after.

Registration and basic vehicle identity

The registration is the public key to the car, but it is not proof of ownership on its own. Treat it as the identifier you use to pull records, then confirm those records against the metal, the VIN and the V5C.

Check that the plate on the car matches the advert and the V5C. Core specs from a lookup should match what you see: fuel, colour and engine size. A mismatch is a stop sign until it is explained with documents.

MOT history

MOT history is one of the most useful free official records for a used car. Use the MOT check to see pass and fail dates, expiry, and the mileage recorded at each test. If you want a second look at the same official MOT timeline, MOTCO also lists those readings from the registration.

Look for long gaps between tests, a sudden run of failures, or a car that was off the road for years then returned with a clean sheet. None of those facts prove a fault on their own, but they tell you what to inspect and what to ask.

If the MOT is due within a few weeks, budget for that test and for any work that often follows. Do not treat a fresh pass as a full mechanical survey. It is a minimum legal standard on the day of the test.

MOT advisories

Advisories are items the tester noted that were not a fail on that day. They still matter. Tyres, brakes, corrosion, oil leaks and suspension notes often turn into bills for the next keeper.

Ask for receipts if the seller says the advisory has been fixed. If there are no receipts, price the work as if you will do it yourself.

Mileage consistency

MOT mileage readings give you a timeline. Open the mileage tool and read the sequence in order. Mileage should generally rise. A drop, a freeze, or a jump that does not match the dates needs an explanation.

Compare that sequence with the dashboard, the service book and any invoices. Cluster clocks, replaced dashboards and “mileage not recorded” gaps are all reasons to slow down. A tidy service book does not override MOT readings.

If the advertised mileage and the latest MOT reading disagree, ask the seller to explain it in writing before you view.

Finance

Outstanding finance stays with the car, not with the seller’s promise. Free MOT and tax data do not show finance. Read how to check outstanding finance and run a paid check before money changes hands. If the seller says finance was settled, ask for a settlement letter from the lender. Do not accept a screenshot of a bank transfer as proof that the agreement is closed.

Stolen markers

A stolen marker is another paid-history item. See how to check if a car is stolen before you commit. Combine that with physical signs: mismatched locks, a VIN that is hard to read, or a seller who will not meet at a real address.

Write-off history

Write-off categories record that an insurer treated the car as a total loss. This is paid data. Use the write-off guide if the car’s age and price make hidden damage expensive. On the viewing, look along the panels for uneven gaps, overspray or a new front clip on an older car.

Keeper history

Keeper changes do not prove how the car was used, but they add context. A long list of keepers in a short time, or a very recent keeper change just before the advert, is worth a question. Company keepers can mean fleet use and high motorway miles, which is not automatically bad if the service history is real.

Match the current keeper name on the V5C to the person you are paying. If they are selling for a friend, or the V5C is not in their name, understand the arrangement before you transfer money.

Plate changes

Personal plates and plate swaps are common. They are not a problem by themselves. They do mean you should confirm the vehicle identity with the VIN, not only the plate you see on the bumper.

Ask when the plate changed and keep that date next to the MOT mileage timeline. A plate change does not reset the car’s history. The VIN still ties the records together.

VIN and V5C

The VIN is the number that should appear on the V5C, on the VIN plate and stamped on the body in the usual places. They must match. Use the VIN tools page when you need to understand what that number is for, then compare it on the car itself.

Read the V5C carefully. Check the name and address, the VIN, the engine number if shown, the colour and the registration. A V5C is not proof that the holder is the legal owner in every dispute, but a missing, copied or obviously altered logbook is a reason not to proceed.

Checking the advert against the real car

Take the advert with you. Tick off extras in daylight. Start from cold if you can, and drive roads that match how you will use the car. If you are not confident, pay for an independent inspection before you agree a price.

Final checklist before payment

• Registration, VIN and V5C all match the car in front of you
• Free MOT, tax and mileage records checked and consistent
• Advisories priced in, or receipts seen for completed work
• Finance, stolen and write-off checks done where the risk justifies it
• Seller and keeper details make sense
• You have a plan for insurance from the moment you drive away
• Payment method is traceable. Avoid unusual cash-only pressure

If anything still feels unresolved, wait. A genuine seller can usually give you time to finish checks. Caroat is there to put MOT, tax, specs and paid history in one place so you can work through this list in order, without mixing free official data with commercial risk records.